Yellowstone: The Place That Made Me Cry

Ok Ya’ll. I’m not the type to cry over pretty views or sweeping landscapes. I admit, I do occasionally tear up during a deeply moving moment, and I get a little choaked up at basically every live performance (they’re just so vulnerable and wonderful!) but nature? Never. 

I love it, I find it awe-inspiring and peaceful. It is my favorite place to be. Heck, I even planned an entire 14-month adventure around it! But crying? No. 

That is until I looked out over the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. 

The sheer wildness of it, the vast expanse, the thunder of the massive waterfall in the distance, it was completely overwhelming in the best way possible. It was a physical reaction, bypassing thought. I simply became aware that I was crying, and the only thought that followed was a quiet wondering: Am I really crying? 

Admittedly, I hadn’t been all that excited for Yellowstone. I’ve spent time in so many beautiful places, and on this trip alone we’ve already seen some of the most stunning views. But this? It completely blew me away. And of course, no photo could ever do it justice. At the Artist Point lookout, a plaque quoted Thomas Moran: ‘"Beyond the reach of human art." Standing there, I understood just how true that was. Some places aren’t meant to be captured or contained, only experienced in the moment. Luckily, the kids also found the perfect tree to make a fort under, so I got to do exactly that, just breath and feel how it felt to be there. 

The awe didn’t stop there. I think all three kids agree they were most impressed by the geysers. We arrived early to see Old Faithful, spread out a picnic, and read our book while waiting. Then, the kids noticed that another geyser in the distance had started steaming more and more until suddenly it erupted too! We’re still not sure which geyser it was, but it felt like a little private show just for us (and our hundred nearest friends). 

My personal favorite geothermal feature was Dragon’s Mouth Spring. This one is unreal! It’s a hot spring bubbling up just inside a cave. It builds up pressure, and you can hear it growling and gurgling. As the water spurts and splashes out, it creates waves and sometimes looks like a dragon’s tongue flicking from the cave. Thick steam poured out, but every now and then the wind shifted just right, giving us a peek inside. I could have stayed there for hours. We did stay for quite a while, and I even doubled back with Sayer later to record a video. IT WAS SO COOL. Sayer and I also thought the bubbling mud pits, which were also in Sulfur Caldron, were pretty exciting so that's the video I'm including here. 

In keeping with what felt like the theme of my entire Yellowstone experience, Grand Prismatic Spring far exceeded my expectations. As you approach, you first notice the steaming water spilling down the banks and feeding into the Firehole River. A bridge takes you across, and then a boardwalk leads you up the hill. Cresting the rise, the view suddenly opens to a vast plain of enormous microbial mats (made of trillions of thermophilic bacteria!) that create the spring’s astonishingly vibrant colors. Several other springs dot the same area, including one heart-shaped pool we affectionately named “Love Spring,” though I can’t recall its real name.

Of course, Yellowstone isn’t just about the landscapes. We saw some amazing wildlife too. Driving through Lamar Valley and along the Slough Creek Trail, we spotted giant herds of bison, pronghorn, and mule deer. We also came across a very old elk antler. We snapped a photo, left it where it was, and not long after saw a ranger pick it up. They explained that rangers move finds like that further off trails so visitors don’t pocket them. The kids got kudos for being good junior rangers and “only taking pictures.” 

The best part though were the bears. On our way back to camp, we saw a couple of black bears and FINALLY a grizzly (or as Grier likes to say, to her sister’s immense annoyance, “grizzled bears”). We even got word from another traveler about a grizzly guarding an elk carcass. 

Even though we were all tired after our long day, we couldn’t resist. We passed our turn for the campsite and headed that way. And y’all, it was worth it. Not only did we spot the grizzly, but we met the kindest people who lowered their scope to kid level and let us peek through. Seeing that bear up close was unreal. 

And as if the day couldn’t get any better, we found ourselves driving along Yellowstone Lake right at sunset. We stopped at an overlook to enjoy the amazing colors (and for a pee) and it was the sweetest, most wonderful moment where I though this is exactly what I hoped for when planning this trip.  

I couldn’t visit the first National Park and not see the original gate. It felt important to share with the kids too, especially now, in a time when our National Parks, and even our country, feel like they’re hanging on by a thread. The Roosevelt Arch, built in 1903, stands tall with the words: For the Benefit and Enjoyment of the People.

For comparison, Banff was stunning but incredibly crowded and navigating the throngs of people made it tricky. Since then, though, the crowds have thinned out. At Yellowstone, it often felt like we had whole spots to ourselves, which made every experience even more special.