The "Crown of the Continent": Where the Views Are So Good, They're Almost Unfair

Hey Everyone! Aaron here. Not sure how we've made it 3 months before my first blog post, but I'm happy to be here with all of you!

Glacier has been on my bucket list for basically my entire adult life, remote, epic, wild, and full of hopeful mystery. I had built this place up in my mind so much that I worried I might leave disappointed. As Steph mentioned in her last post, the travel days between destinations have become just as rewarding as the destinations themselves. Traveling from Banff to West Glacier was no exception, over 300 miles through remote valleys of the Canadian Rockies. Unfortunately, that sense of awe dimmed a little when we crossed back into the U.S. Our research before entering Canada paid off with a seamless four-minute crossing, but for some reason we didn’t think twice about the return trip. We’re U.S. citizens—it’ll be easy, right? Wrong. After initial questioning, we were pulled aside for an agricultural inspection. Thirty minutes, several lectures, and a lot of confiscated fresh food later, we were finally on our way. Live and learn. Who needs all that organic, non-GMO, pesticide-free food anyway? 

We knew Glacier was massive, and with only one (epic) road bisecting the park, exploring from just one side would be limiting. So, in classic fashion, Steph and I decided: why choose? We’d do both.

West Glacier

We spent four nights in West Glacier. One of Demory’s school friends, who now lives in Seattle, met us for a couple of nights. They had a blast catching up while the rest of us explored Lake McDonald, paddleboarding in its crystal-clear waters, admiring Glacier’s famous painted rocks, swinging in a lakeside hammock, and sampling every huckleberry treat we could find. (For the record, the huckleberry beer was the clear winner!) It was the perfect introduction to Glacier’s magic.

From Demory: I had SO much fun with Annie! We spent our first sleepover together planning all of the fun activities we'd do together the next day. We went to the theater to see Freakier Friday. We had the entire theater to ourselves, so we got up and danced and sang and talked as much as we wanted. After that, we went to a gas station and bought matching hoodies and snacks and treats for the rest of our night. We headed back to the campsite where we played games, talked, and crafted until we were too sleepy to keep our eyes open any more. We were both so sad to leave each other the next day but our time together was PERFECT!!!

The next day we said goodbye to Annie and Beth and set out on the Going-to-the-Sun Road. I’d been anticipating this drive for months, convinced it would be the highlight of the trip. And while it was absolutely incredible, another spot would ultimately steal my heart. This road is unlike anything I’ve ever seen, towering peaks, dramatic drop-offs, waterfalls tumbling everywhere, and views stretching for miles. It lives up to every ounce of hype. We drove west to east, then thankfully decided to turn around and drive it back the other way. Seeing the valley from a new perspective was like an entirely different experience, equally stunning. 

Our last day on the west side took us somewhere far less crowded: the North Fork of Glacier. To get there, you travel long stretches of gravel road until you reach the tiny off-grid community of Polebridge, famous for its bakery and huckleberry bear claws. Naturally, we stocked up before heading deeper into the wilderness.

Bowman Lake was our true destination, though the weather had other plans. Strong winds (gusting 30–40 mph) turned the lake into something that looked more like the Gulf of Mexico than a mountain lake. Paddleboards stayed strapped to the truck, but our bakery picnic was unforgettable. At one point, I was tucked into my Chillbo Shwaggins with Sully on my lap, staring across the water at a landscape that could have been straight out of Lord of the Rings. To my left, the girls swayed happily in their hammocks. To my right, Steph and Sayer snuggled under a blanket on the picnic rug. That moment: Bowman Lake, the wind, the mountains, the peace, stole my heart. I’ll never forget it.

St. Mary & Many Glacier

From there, we moved camp to St. Mary to explore Glacier’s east side. Everyone told us Many Glacier was a must-see, but we quickly realized the challenge: a massive construction project had closed the road to general traffic. The only ways in were staying at the historic Many Glacier Hotel, booking the boat tour six months in advance, or snagging one of 50 daily hiker shuttle tickets released the night before. Thankfully, we scored five. Later, we learned that other campers had been trying unsuccessfully for days. And wow, was it worth it. We hiked around Swiftcurrent Lake, had lunch at the beautiful Swiss-chalet-style hotel, rented a rowboat, and even braved polar plunges into the icy water. Sayer and Demory surprised us all by jumping in again and again. For the rest of us, once was plenty!

Our last day was spent exploring the St. Mary’s area, hiking to yet more breathtaking overlooks, and helping the kids earn their Junior Ranger badges. 

Final Thoughts

Glacier is special. Wild and humbling, yet peaceful and grounding. I can’t wait to return.