Farolitos in Santa Fe
On our way to Santa Fe, we found ourselves in Arizona…again. But this time we actually made it to Petrified Forest National Park and it was totally worth the extra effort! Did you know petrified wood is super hard?! It's a 7-8/10 on the Mohs hardness scale (learned that one too) so the kids could climb all over the petrified logs, and even Sully got to hike alongside us. Only a handful of national parks allow dogs on the actual trails, so it always feels like a small victory when we find one that does. We picnicked on the Giant Logs Trail, surrounded by ancient trees turned to stone, and then wandered through the Crystal Forest, where everything sparkled under the sun. One of the coolest tidbits we learned was that millions of years ago, this area was likely lush and tropical, more like present-day Costa Rica than the high desert it is now. This felt like a sweet surprise connection to our besties, the Navones who are spending the year in Costa Rica! It felt like the perfect last national park of this stretch before heading into the color and celebration of Santa Fe.
The entire time we were in Santa Fe, Aaron and I kept saying, “I really like it here.” I can absolutely see the draw for people. The sunsets alone feel like an argument for staying. The colors are unlike anywhere else I’ve been, the bright orange of the horizon pressed up against an almost turquoise sky. Every evening, I found myself stopping whatever I was doing because there was simply no other choice but to watch.
Christmas was a particularly fun time to visit. The entire city was decked out in Christmas lights, with farolitos lining the tops of walls everywhere we went. There were also garlands of red peppers draped throughout the city. I’m not sure if that’s a year-round thing or a holiday addition, but either way, it was delightful. We loved wandering the historic downtown, and one evening we went to La Luz de las Noches at the Santa Fe Botanical Garden. There were live musicians scattered throughout the grounds, cookies and festive drinks, and Christmas carols to close out the night. I’ll admit, this was one of the first times I really missed our sweet little neighborhood. When they sang Gloria in Excelsis Deo, I sang “Glo-o-o-o-o-o-ria” with a lota extra heart, because that’s how we always sing it to everyone’s favorite neighborhood grandma, Gloria. (We miss you, Gloria!)
The big kids and I also visited the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, not entirely sure how it would go. We lingered longer than planned, talking about colors and shapes, about why she painted the same bones and flowers over and over, and what it might have felt like to live and work in such a stark, beautiful place. We also, inevitably, had to talk about how some of the flowers look like vulvas (is this just my family or is this an all family thing?).
The last rooms of the museum held the Tewa Nangeh/Tewa Country exhibit and was filled with the art, words, and thoughts of Tewa Pueblo artists, scholars, and culture bearers. This region in frequently referred to as “O’Keeffe Country and Georgia is quoted saying “God told me if I paint that mountain enough, I could have it”. Seeing their works alongside some of O’Keeffe’s iconic landscapes, really helped to dispel the problematic “O’Keeffe Country” narrative. We appreciated this perspective and really enjoyed seeing their work.
One day we headed north to Bandelier National Monument, home to one of the largest concentrations of Ancestral Pueblo archaeological sites in the American Southwest. It was an incredible place to explore with the kids, with wooden ladders leading up into ancient dwellings carved into the rock. The most exciting stop was the very last one: four consecutive ladders (about 140 feet total) leading up to the impressive Alcove House. I was genuinely struck by the kids’ willingness and ability to take on the climb. Their growth over the course of the trip was so evident with Grier clearly more comfortable with heights, and Sayer stronger and more confident in his body.
But I think everyone’s favorite day was when we finally found the hot springs the kids and Aaron had been dreaming about. They were wonderful, easily accessed from the road, right along the river, with several small pools at different temperatures. Dems declared “The Toaster” her favorite, while the rest of us preferred the more reasonable warmth of the lower pools. We met some of the most lovely people while soaking. There was a pregnant momma who was also a doula and a former surrogate, along with her beautiful sister who had flown in to support her birth (obviously instant connection!). There were Indigenous locals who offered a sage smudge and blessed her, the baby, the birth, and all of us. And then there was Daniel, the most genuinely kind man, who we later learned was celebrating his birthday.
And with Santa Fe, the first half of our adventure quietly wrapped up. We left the trailer, lovingly called Racine, in a storage lot outside of Albuquerque and headed north to Denver to spend the holidays with my family. By which I mean the actual holidays, plus a couple of extra weeks generously tacked on. A pause before whatever comes next. And yes, we are apparently very comfortable overstaying a welcome.
